Rainbow Hair

I've wanted to dye my hair purple for the longest time, and decided that, what the heck, I should do it for my 30th birthday (are you sensing how havoc I've become since entering a new decade of life? Hahahaha). Plus, I saw a picture of Katy Perry with dark purple hair and fell in love with her hair.

You have to admit her hair looks GOOD!

Source: hairworldmag.com

So I took the plunge and went to perm and dye my hair. I couldn't do them together (too many chemicals), so I did the digital perm first, just in time for my birthday. I've permed my hair before and am glad it turned as fabulous as the first time. It's the Korean perm that gives Asian hair big curls. My only regret is that I went to the beach a few days later, which in Singapore means the beach water is SALT WATER, and that loosened my curls significantly :(

My big curls that I enjoyed only for a few days. Lesson to self: don't go to the beach/ swimming so soon after a perm.

I went to dye my hair a few days later. My hairdresser recommended that I only dye the underside of my hair because 1) something about Katy Perry having American hair, which is different from Asian hair, and so the effect wouldn't be the same if I did the whole head (hmm...not quite sure what she meant), and 2) to minimize the damage to my hair. The entire process smelled awful, I needed to pee badly, and bleaching my hair was semi-traumatic as I voluntarily destroyed my hair. 

I sent this Ah Lian picture of me to my family and joked that this was my new hairstyle. My sister in the States, who didn't know about my plans, was horrified.

After all the "pain" and "suffering", however, the result was FAN-TA-BU-LOUS and I LOVED, LOVED, LOVED IT!!! Especially that streak of pink-purple near the top. 

And then a few weeks later, I went to Adventure Cove, one of Singapore's bigger water theme parks, with my sister. A few things to note about the park:
a) It's a great place to go to on a hot summer's day;

b) All the rides are (older) children-friendly, so none of them were particularly thrilling for my sister and I;

c) Neutrogena Sunscreen is AMAZING;

d) I was able to snorkel for the first time! Hated it the first round, loved it the second;

e) I also fed stingrays during one of the feeding sessions-- one of the coolest water experiences ever!

f) Only buy the tickets on promotion because it is not worth the full price. 

The one and only pic we took at Adventure Cove.

As much as I enjoyed Adventure Cove, the chlorinated water ruined my hair even more! I was sad when I realized that my purple hair had turned into this weird ash-green color at the bottom, and the pink-purple had faded to a copper-orange. That is, until I noticed that despite the fading, my hair had miraculously become this gradient-ed colorful, rainbow-like hair!

And that is how I now have rainbow hair that I adore!

The ends even match the huge bruise I developed from Adventure Cove (:p)

Fast forward a few weeks, and all the blue and purple have washed out into an ash-green color that sounds gross but actually looked pretty good. But since I was going back to the States, I touch up my hair and dyed it purple again (thank goodness no bleaching needed). The color this round is more blue than purple, and not as obvious so :( But I still love it. 

When I return to Singapore unsure-exactly-when-but-hopefully-very soon, I want to do this again. Only next time, I want to do it to my ENTIRE head of hair. 

I can't wait! 

My Worse Flight Experience (for now)

When bad things hit, they hit all at once.

I was supposed to fly from Ohio to Utah on Saturday evening, but it's now 12.45 a.m., Sunday morning, and guess where I'm typing this? At the Columbus, Ohio airport. I am still stuck in Buckeyeland, and it has been a rough night.

Let's start at when I went through the security check. My contact lens solution set off the alarm because it contained hydrogen peroxide, and hence, I had to undergo a full body pat down and luggage check. The pat down wasn't too bad because there weren't many people around. However, the male officer opened my carry-on luggage that had been stuffed to the max. In an attempt to avoid paying the (stupid) check-in luggage fees, I had crammed a whole week's worth of necessities and gifts into my carry-on luggage, that included my clothes, undergarments, sealed bags with my toiletries, and sealed bags of ba kwa (Singaporean bbq-ed roast pork). He took out EVERYTHING, unsealed every bag, and scanned every item, while I received the pat down. The contents of my suitcase was scattered all over the table, and it didn't help that he had to touch and scan my underwear. Yes, he wore gloves, and the check was conducted in a professional manner, but I still feel semi-violated when I think about his gloved hands on my underwear. When it was over (and what do you know? I'm not a terrorist) I had to repack my entire luggage right there at the security checkpoint.

As I repacked my luggage, I heard the announcement that my plane was boarding. I threw the rest of my things in, and rushed to my gate (thank goodness the airport is small!). When I boarded the plane, there was a flight officer making some announcement. I got to my seat, and realized that because I had arrived late, there were no overhead bins to hold my luggage near my seat, and the closest available space was way up front. Left with no choice, I stowed it there and went back to my seat. But at the moment I sat down, I heard the flight officer announce that there was a massive storm approaching Columbus, and as a result, the plane would be grounded for an hour.

AN HOUR?! Which meant that I was definitely going to miss my connecting flight in Chicago (my transit time was only 70 minutes). The flight officer suggested that everyone who would miss a connecting flight should approach the airline help desk to reschedule an entire flight itinerary. So I collected my heavy, over-stuffed luggage that I had just stowed, and waited in the long line to book another route. When my turn finally came, I learned that I had booked the very last flight of United of the day, and no other United flights were leaving that evening. I had 2 choices: a) go to Chicago that evening on the delayed flight, wait till the morning for another connecting flight to Salt Lake City, or b) wait till the next morning to fly out to Chicago or Houston, then onward to Salt Lake City. Either way, I was only going to be able to fly to Utah the next day.

Not good choices but what could I do? So I booked my flight for the next day (*cross fingers no massive storms again*), and treated myself to a nice dinner because I was already on the cusp of a breakdown. Keep in mind that I'm still suffering from massive, whack-o jet lag, having flown back from Singapore to the United States only 5 days ago. I also moved into my new apartment Saturday morning, and was already tired from moving and unpacking. Thus after filling my tummy, I proceeded to find a spot in the checked-in, secured area to wait out the night. I had decided against getting a hotel room or staying overnight with a friend for a variety of reasons, plus it shouldn't be too bad with the cushion-y chairs and free Wi-Fi, right?

Wrong. I was enjoying my respite from the already rough night, when around 12.30 a.m., a security guard approached me and told me that I had to leave the secured area, and wait outside in the pre-security check area. WHICH MEANS THAT I WOULD HAVE TO GO THROUGH THE FULL SECURITY CHECK IN THE MORNING AGAIN!!!

I wanted to cry. It has been a terrible experience, and I'm trying to remain positive. I'm safe, have Wi-Fi, a new itinerary for tomorrow, and food to last me till I arrive in Utah. The sympathetic waitress that served me dinner also taught me to take out all liquid containers from my luggage for a separate scan. That way, if the alarm went off again, security officers would only test the containers, and not my entire luggage. Brilliant idea that I am definitely going to try later!

But I really, really, really, really, really am praying that everything goes smoothly from here on out. And that I get over my jetlag tonight so that I can catch some sleep. Being wide awake in the early hours (like now) stinks.

30 before 30

I turn 30 today, and my life has turned out completely different from what I envisioned it would be as a young girl: I'm single, with zero prospects, no children, and still in school.

My mother found this picture of me while sorting through her history this year. I look so...young. With ZERO idea of what life had in-store for me.

But that's the life God handed to me, and you know what? God was right because I LOVED my twenties! I didn't love or ravel in every moment of it; in fact, some parts downright sucked. Like, really sucked. But this life-decade has been an enriching, rewarding, exhilarating, trying, emotional and all-out fun roller coaster ride.

And today, I'm taking birthday privileges and listing out 30 of the highest-highlights of my twenties. For those who want to skip all the nauseating narcissism, please scroll to the bottom where I promise there is a point to all this self-indulgence and vanity :) [It starts after the red words.]

MISS KEESH'S 30 BEFORE 30 HIGHLIGHTS/ MILESTONES (in no particular order)

1) Served a LDS mission for 1.5 years in Las Vegas, NV & Taipei, Taiwan (2007 - 2009). I returned from my mission burned out and bruised, and it was hard to think about it for a long time, but I can now look back on my mission and feel absolute joy.

One of my favorite pictures on my mission; @ the Taipei zoo.

2) Returned to BYU after my mission and took a bunch of fun classes (along with a few not-so-fun ones), such as floral design, planetary science, cooking, religion classes... And I took a class on "U.S. History after 1945," that literally changed my life. I developed my love for modern American history from this course, and I specialize in it now. Who would have thought?!

Was in D.C. at the right time to see
the beautiful cherry blossoms!

3) A glorious 4-month internship in Washington D.C. @ The Woodrow Wilson International Center for Scholars. LOVE, LOVE, LOVE. Washington D.C. is my 2nd favorite city in the world (after Singapore of course).

4) Graduated in 2011 from BYU with excellent results. I am a proud blue-bleeding Cougar!

5) Another awesome year-long, paid internship, this time at the Church History Library in Salt Lake City, Utah. Btw the book I helped research is in print HERE!

6) I earned my driver's license! And with that...

7) I bought my first car! Well, my parents did so the car technically belongs to them. But I've invested a ton of money in the subsequent upkeep and insurance, so I count myself as having a third share of ownership (:p) It's small and old (16 years old this year!) but I love it and am now a lifelong fan of Toyota cars--which really do last forever. 

When at OSU, do as other Buckeyes do... go to a football game!
My first (and only) live football game where we creamed Penn State in 2013.

8) Moved to Columbus, Ohio in 2012 to do a PhD in history at The Ohio State University.

9) And with the move, I was out of the "Mormon Bubble" and into "real-world-USA." It was an eye-opening experience for sure. Especially when in Ohio during an election year.

10) Two years into my graduate program, I received my Masters Degree (once THIS AWFUL PAPERWORK SNAFU was resolved). Yay, another milestone in the meaningless paper chase my career.

11) I voted for the first time in Columbus, watched a March Madness game live in Dayton, drove through Cincinnati, visited Kirtland, sat the crazy roller coasters at Cedar Point, hiked Old Man's Cave, went shooting for the first time & toured the Amish Country. I love the lush greenery and diversity of Ohio!

Thank you Ohio for introducing me to
funnel cake + powdered sugar + ice cream + hot fudge + whipped cream
= HEAVEN @ Cedar Point

12) Due to research demands for grad school, I've driven cross-country four times (27 hours between Ohio and Utah), twice on my own. My poor car is a real trooper.

Taken at Ghost Rock viewing area on my most recent trip to Utah, 2015

13) I've taken multiple road trips to visit friends around the United States: California, Nevada, Michigan, Kentucky, Illinois, Massachusetts, New York, and Pennsylvania. I'm amazed at how distinct each state is.

14) I've also traveled around Asia, mainly with family: Cambodia (twice!), the Philippines, Malaysia, mainland China, and Hong Kong.

Still wondering how
this little guy got
into my apartment

15) Learned how to "adult": find an apartment to live, pay rent on time for said apartment, furnish and decorate said apartment, pay bills on time for said apartment, get along with roommates for said apartment, etc. And who can forget that incident with THE BAT?

16) Learned to be a "real" working adult: after being a teaching assistant since college, I taught my first college class online in Fall 2015. I love teaching...but not online. *BLEAH* I've also presented at conferences and guest lectured a few times--those I loved.

17) It's crazy how my friends are "adult-ing" too, and how similar/ different we are from our school days. I've attended so many weddings, been a bridesmaid a few times, and you know it's real when the babies come. Some of my friends have even established careers, bought their first home, and traveled the world. Hmm...now I really feel like a loser.

Pretty proud of myself for
making these pillow cases!

18) Learned to use the sewing machine, and embarked on simple sewing projects. Loved acquiring this new skill even though I'm still an extreme noob. Plus it comes in handy in service projects.

19) Been assigned various "callings" for church: Relief Society, ward missionary, activities committee, music chair(wo)man, and institute teacher. Each assignment has humbled and taught me new skills. In particular, I've served as Relief Society president in 2 wards, and I really miss my bishops (congregation leaders) and two terrific presidencies. Also, I'm currently teaching institute (Bible study) for the second semester. This assignment been an oddly-fun struggle: my students are the bomb and I've learned a ton, but it sucks up a lot of energy.

20) Had the privilege to visit Mormon temples around the world and perform the requisite rituals inside. Temples visited so far: various temples in Utah, Las Vegas, Washington D.C., Manhattan, Boston, Columbus, Chicago, Louisville, Manila, Hong Kong and Taiwan. Also, does the RLDS Kirtland Temple count?

My favorite of them all-- the Las Vegas Temple.
Photo credit: www.ldsphotography.net

21) I wrote. A LOT. School papers, lectures, funding applications, talks for church, my blogs and so forth. And I've published a book review, and contributed two chapters to THIS BOOK. Nothing like publishing to feel oh-so-"accomplished"...or discouraged when your writing is torn apart into tiny pieces. *sigh*

22) Of course I have to say something about graduate school, much of which has been exhausting and a pain. However, it has also been extremely stimulating, and I feel so much smarter just listening to my fellow graduate students. Thank goodness they are (mostly) very nice and supportive. They challenge my ideas and conventions, but in listening to and learning from them, I've gained more confidence, understanding and also compassion.

23) Speaking of school, I'm still in heaven that I miraculously received the Fulbright-Hays Doctoral Dissertation Fellowship, which allowed me to return home to Singapore to do dissertation research. Hello free trip home! Come to think of it, I've been extremely blessed to obtain scholarships, grants and employment throughout my college and post-graduate years. Nothing big (I mean how much can a graduate student earn?) but enough to remain debt-free, and with excess to cover research trips. I'm a total believer in paying tithes :)

Still one of my favorite pictures of my sisters and I. Taken
at my sister's graduation in 2013.

24) I am currently in the thick of research, which includes collecting oral history histories of the first generation of Singaporean Mormons. I LOVE listening to these fascinating and inspiring interviews. Every single person has an important story to tell.

25) Quality time spent creating more memories with my family: family trips around Asia, surprising my sister for her graduation, road trips, hiking trips, finally taking an updated family portrait after 8 years(!), doing ordinary, hangout-y stuff with them, exploring new food places, arguing, making up, talking about our joy and pains... Not to mention all the family reunions with my extended family. I would never trade my family for any other in the world.

26) This past year of research at home has given me the chance to re-explore my beloved Singapore (like in THIS POST) and cheesy as this sounds, I fall deeper in love with my country every day. Growing up, I was guilty of looking at the "greener grass on the other side," but after being away for many years, I now look at my homeland through fresh eyes, and everything is the same and different. Of course Singapore is not a perfect country, but it's perfect for me. ESPECIALLY THE FOOD!!!

Did I mention that Singapore's Changi Airport consistently ranks as one of the best?
@ Changi Airport in 2015 with the best fruit in the world!

27) Witnessed the death of Lee Kuan Yew, the Founding Father of developed Singapore in 2015. That same year, Singapore celebrated her milestone 50th birthday, and I was able to be home for the grand celebration. Not many people can say the same for their country :)

28) I can't believe how many friends I've made from all over the world, whether from school, work, church or other settings. And I'm astonished that so many want to remain friends! THANK YOU and know I love you all (I'm serious about this).

To all readers of my blog :)
Chalk drawing by some kids from my old apartment @ BYU

29) I wrote about going through a private, tough spiritual period and the healing that came from it. I hope to never go through something similar again, but I now understand another dimension and depth of God's love and power. There really is no better feeling in the world when healing comes to the soul.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
[If you skipped my list above, please start reading from here.]

30) But you know what has been the most amazing blessing in my life so far? I've learned to view my singlehood from a different perspective. Growing up in a very religious family, and being an active Mormon myself, it's inevitable that you hear and learn A LOT about marriage and family. And there's nothing wrong with that because those are the most important aspects of life.

However, in my early and mid-twenties, it was extremely frustrating and heartbreaking to be the single, 3rd/5th/7th/9th wheel at a gathering. Everyone seemed to be pairing off (and later, have babies!), while I was left on the sidelines, trying to be happy for these couples while also feeling discarded and un-special. Moreover, if there was potential for a relationship to develop, I either ended up being the emotionally immature b***h who rejected a couple good guys (on hindsight), or I was the one getting my heart broken. More often it was the latter than the former, although I will own the blame for some rejections. But you get my point--I wasn't successful in the dating department. I admit that there were days when I shook my fist at God and demanded answers.

Stewart Falls, Utah (2011)
The photographer had perfect timing!

But some time in my late-twenties, after going through a particularly rough period, something changed in me. I can't describe how, when or why, but all of sudden, I became aware that not only was I at peace with my singlehood, I had learned to appreciate the "perks," flexibility and opportunities that came with it. Perhaps God brought to my remembrance my list above, and I realized that I was able to experience many of them because I was single: graduate school, church assignments, all the traveling... Plus I have developed a deep sense of self-sufficiency and independence (maybe a little too much even) that has made me mentally and emotionally stronger.

Marriage and family is wonderful, and I still look forward to fulfilling those dreams one day. But I've also learned to stop looking at my single status as a denial or even a delay of blessings. Being single IS the blessing! 

And that's when I got down on my knees and thanked God for blessing me with the life that I had, and that I went through my entire twenties as a single person. I'm genuinely happy for those who found their True Love early on-- please invite me to your wedding! But I've stopped envying them, and come to understand that my life path is just different from theirs. All I need to do is trust that God will take care of me down whichever life path He wants to take me on. I'm going to live life to the fullest, regardless of my marital status.

Perhaps that's the biggest lesson I've gained in my twenties--that I can learn to be happy and grateful in whatever circumstances I find myself in. Of course, I recognize that I say this as a very privileged woman living in a prosperous, developed, safe and peaceful country. I doubt I can say this as easily if I was, say, a refugee.

But this is exactly why I've learned to be grateful for each and every day. The fact that I even have a blog, internet access, and an audience of readers who care enough to bear with this self-absorbed post, are all evidence of my privilege and how much I take for granted. Because there are so many others who don't even have a roof over their head, or food on their table. Or are lonely and depressed from all kinds of emotional and mental turmoil. Or feel alone and isolated, whether from separation or perception.

So thank you to all of you who bothered to read this blog post. Thank you for being part of my circle of loved ones who love and care about me. Believe me, I can remember how we met and interacted because I don't add strangers or bare acquaintances on my social media accounts. And each of you has added a ray of sunshine to my life, making it so much brighter and cheerful. I'm not the best family/ friend but I hope I've touched your life, even if it's only in a smaller way compared to how you've impacted mine.

A few months ago, I came across this video of Angelina Jolie receiving the Jean Hersholt Humanitarian Award at the 2013 Governors Ball Awards. Her acceptance speech has stuck with me, and there is really no better way to express how I feel as I enter a new decade of my life. Like her, I just want "to be of use." I hope her words will touch your hearts as it has inspired mine.  [You can start at 1:18]

(https://youtu.be/2ATgxOp31oI)

"I have never understood why some people are lucky enough to be born with the chance that I had, to have this path in life, and why across the world, there is a woman just like me, with the same abilities and the same desires, same work ethic and love for her family, who would most likely make better films and better speeches. Only she sits in a refugee camp, and she has no voice. She worries about what her children will eat, how to keep them safe, and if they'll ever be allowed to return home. I don't know why this is my life and that's hers. I don't understand that but I will do as my mother asked, and I will do the best I can with this life, to be of use." 

Re-exploring Pulau Ubin

I was extremely blessed to receive funding from the U.S. federal government to conduct dissertation research in Singapore. However, one of the conditions is that I cannot leave Singapore during the period of funding, which means I'm landlocked on this tiny island until September. As much as I love Singapore, it can get a little claustrophobic being "trapped" in this bustling urban city.

Bye bye mainland Singapore!

Hence, you can imagine how excited I was when in May, the bishop (congregation leader) of my church invited me to tag along with his family to Pulau Ubin (pronounced "pull-le-owl oo-bin"), one of Singapore's off-shore islands along the east coast.

According to Wikipedia, "Pulau Ubin" means "Granite Island" in the Malay language due to its many former granite quarries (I learned something new today!). Today, Pulau Ubin is home to one of Singapore's last natural rural ecosystems, and several large outdoor campsites (Singaporean friends remember OBS?). Only a few stalwart residents still live on the island, although there is a thriving bike-rental and camping business due to the high level of tourists and school expeditions that take place there. It's a tiny island, only 10 square kilometers (or 4 square miles), so you can explore the island in a couple of hours.

I've been there a few times but it's been a few years since my last visit. Plus, when you are landlocked in an urban area for months, the rustic trails of Pulau Ubin are like a heaven-sent breath of fresh air. From the moment you disembark from the ferry, you immediately feel the difference. No concrete jungle, no jostling crowd; just natural, thick vegetation everywhere.

And aggressive monkeys. People, please stop feeding the monkeys.

You can hike along the paths, although the most popular form of transportation is cycling, and the bike trails are FUN! I miss cycling soooooo much. Sadly, there were a couple steep slopes I could not conquer but am sure I could have right after my mission :( Next time...

The stunning 35-meters Common Pulai Heritage Tree

The highlight has to be our trip to Chek Jawa, a 100-hectare marsh wetland located on the eastern tip of the island. LOVED IT! This was my first time exploring this part of the island. Not only did we see real mangrove marshes, we also saw wild boar, monitor lizards, tiny crabs and mud-skippers. 

There was a boardwalk for visitors so as to minimize disturbance to the natural environment, and a seven-story tall viewing tower that looked out into the forest and sea. 

View from the top. So grateful that some areas have survived
Singapore's intensive (and at times, destructive) development program. 

The boardwalk takes visitors through the marshes, then along the coast of the island. During low tide, visitors can see various sea creatures indigenous to Singapore, but we arrived during high tide and didn't see any of them. The view was still spectacular though! I really, really, really love being near water.

Clockwise from top-left: view from the boardwalk; my friends and I in front of an abandoned former colonial home; random unique flower; I love my Miss Manda whom I can goof around with. 

As much as I loved exploring Chek Jawa, the best surprise was yet to come. On our ride back, we came across this beautiful sight:

I seriously had no idea that Singapore was capable of producing such a stunning pool of rich blue water. We aren't known for our natural landscape, but this lake proved me wrong! It's not big and was fenced around. Nonetheless, how gorgeous is that?! The lake is really water accumulation from an abandoned quarry. 

Aaaaand when we arrived back in the mainland, we saw a cute otter eating a fish at the jetty. For a true-blue city girl like me, seeing an otter in real life got me super excited. I'm weird like that. The day was hot (duh...it's Singapore) but any unpleasantness was compensated by the terrific company, the sights and exhilaration of exploring the island. So grateful to my bishop and his family for organizing this outing! 

Off to my Ancestral Homeland!

My paternal grandfather migrated from the province of Guangzhou, China to Singapore when he was 13 years old. Guangzhou is more commonly known as Canton, where the dialect of Cantonese originated from. My paternal grandmother also has roots in Guangzhou, though her ancestors were from a different village.

Anyway, in September of 2015, my bestie told me that she was going there for a work trip, and asked if I wanted to accompany her. HECK YES!!! It was my first time going to mainland China, and hello, she was literally going to my "ancestral province." Despite the exorbitant visa application price (US$140...valid for 10 years, which is okay but still!), I jumped at the chance to travel with her. I wasn't able to visit the two ancestral halls because they were far from where we stayed, and I can't speak fluent enough Cantonese to hunt them down.

But I could still absorb in the sights, sounds and smells of my "ancestral province." Some of it wasn't that great. In case you think people exaggerate when they say you don't see the sky in China due to the pollution, they weren't kidding. It wasn't that bad in Guangzhou but the sky was overcast everyday. We also saw people smoking early in the morning, before snuffing out their cigarette buds to start their exercise routine. Yeah...

Other parts of the trip were awesome though! First, thanks to my bestie's company, we stayed at the luxurious Marriott Hotel (at Tianhe), which was (conveniently) across the street from Tianhe Fashion Mall, a HUGE underground shopping center. The mall is easily the biggest I've been to, although apparently it isn't the biggest in Guangzhou (or China). We browsed the stores for hours, and only conquered half of it. There were also many quirky corners that were fun to explore, such as the one evening when we came across a small pen of 3 horses. No idea why they were there but horses inside the mall?! Super random.

And of course we ate! It's funny because we ate Japanese ramen and Korean bbq since they are cheaper compared to Singapore. Have no fear though-- we also ate local food, most notably, dim sum. We went to the restaurant at Hotel Guangzhou (广州酒店), one of the oldest, more reputable eateries. Not the best dim sum I've had but good enough!

[L-R: My haul of Guangzhou's famous dried sausages and other snacks; tea and dim sum...such a Cantonese thing to do; ramen that was SO GOOD]

Plus at the restaurant, I saw the largest Lazy Susan in my life! Imagine how heavy that thing would be to turn with dishes piled on it. Not so practical yah? 

We also visited The Museum of the Nanyue King of Western Han Dynasty. In 1983, construction workers were digging a plot of land scheduled for development when they stumbled across the tomb of the second Nanyue king, Zhao Mo, who ruled over the southern China/ Northern Vietnam region from 137 to 122 B.C. How cool is that?! Along with the MASSIVE tomb, archaeologists also found precious jewels and artifacts, and the remains of his concubines and animals. The museum guided visitors through the history and findings of the excavation site, and also showcased a special exhibition of historical ceramic pillows. I was in history nerd heaven. And it only cost 12 yuan (US$1.90/ S$2.50)!

[L-R, T-B: Outside of the museum; ancient Chinese people were short, and I'm already considered petite!; the massive tomb; the famous dragon-phoenix jade disc; sampling of the ceramic pillows on display.]

I couldn't take pictures of most of the exhibition, but those sections that I could take, some of them were just weird. Like this two-human-headed tomb dragon, and the monkey & human-faced shape ocarinas, all from the Tang Dynasty. Actually, we don't even know if these artifacts are genuine (see THIS SCANDAL), but it was still weirdly cool. 

After the museum tour, we hopped down to the famous Beijing Road for more shopping and eating. Most of the goods there aren't that cheap, even though every shop claimed to be "on sale." But I managed to snag my big, blue bag I carry everyday now, a few Pixar and Studio Ghibli movies, and one of those popular adult coloring books (Secret Garden). Not too bad. Thank goodness the evening crowd had not yet arrived. 

[Couldn't resist taking a picture of this cute Chinese girl]

The ultimate highlight, however, had to be my first Chinese massage. We went to the Tianhe North Road branch of Fu Yuan Tang/ 扶元堂, one of Guangzhou's more reputable massage places. I paid slightly over S$100/ US$73 for a complete package that included a deep-level tissue massage, gua sha and oil treatment. 

HOLY MOLY.

THE MASSAGE HURT LIKE CRAZY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I screamed into my hand and teared up at one point because the masseur used so much strength on one particular muscular knot (and she claimed to only be using a soft touch). I've always liked gua sha so I wasn't shocked by the results, but my back was so delicate, it hurt to wear clothes. Overall, I felt better and lighter, and would do it again, though I would request a soundproof room so that I can scream my heart out. 

I enjoyed my trip Guangzhou, and would love to go back again! Next time, I have to visit my ancestral halls. Beside, I better make use of that expensive visa ;)

P.S. Buy the lychee-flavored Pocky sticks that you can only find at the airport-- yummy!! 

Siem Reap 2015 Part II

[PART I of my adventures in Siem Reap is HERE.]

Once again, looking through my bi-gillion pictures I took in Siem Reap brings back so many memories, I don't even know where to begin. Plus sorting through and organizing pictures is not my favorite activity. So here goes my best effort:

Angkor Wat
Of course when you visit Siem Reap, you MUST go to the ruins of the ancient city Angkor. This trip our tour guide took us to even more sites and explained the intricate carvings in greater detail. (Seriously, let me know if you want me to recommend my guide to you. He is fabulous!) It was SUPER HOT but worth every minute spent there. I have tons of pictures of every temple we went to, and and here are just a few highlights:

No filters, just pure beauty. It is that amazing. The middle two pictures were taken at sunrise. 

I'm blown away by the architecture and scenery every time I visit. And yup, those are bullocks grazing next to the temple ruins. Of course this city girl had to take a picture of them. 

(https://youtu.be/_IR7CjLBXoQ)

Tonle Sap River
The Tonle Sap River connects to the Tonle Sap Lake, a freshwater lake that is seasonally-flooded. The borders of the lake shrinks and expands according to the dry/ wet seasons, and is also dependent on the water and minerals that flow down from its more famous sister, the Mekong River. We traveled along just a tiny part of the river to the lake, and although it was the dry season, the lake was already so big, it felt like we were at sea.

(https://youtu.be/NsENtRN0Mh0)

It was also humbling to see the famous floating villages along the river. I am amazed at how adaptable and resilient people are, even in horrendous circumstances, and feel ashamed that I take so much of my life for granted.

(https://youtu.be/fGIHFPnAtK8)

Landmine Museum

The only word to describe the experience of visiting this outdoor museum is "sobering." I just can't understand how the leaders of the Khmer Rouge could descend to such horrifying levels of cruelty. The museum isn't fancy but worth a visit. And the Killing Fields is definitely on my travel wishlist.

Phnom Kulen 
The highlight of our trip has got to be our trip up Kulen Mountain, where we hiked through a small village, visited the largest reclining Buddha statue in Cambodia, waded across one small waterfall, and swam under another.
IT
WAS
AWESOME!!!

Our guide pointed out along the way that sections of the Stung Kbal Spean River (try pronouncing that) have linga carvings on the bedrock, representing fertility and flowing abundance. If you ever wondered what extravagant ideas ancient kings had, imagine asking your servants to divert a river, carve over a 1000 different etchings on the stone bed, before flooding it again. *jaw drop*

[Top 3: Sample of the linga carvings that go for miles; the hibiscus was so pretty, I had to take it; my sister and dad at the smaller waterfall.

Bottom 3: Illegal poachers selling their wares; I can't recall the name of this unique flower spotted at the Buddhist temple; the view from Phnom Kulen.]

More random pictures from the trip. Isn't Siem Reap just beautiful?! From its ancient ruins to its rice padi fields to the sights, sounds and smells in the more urban areas... I LOVE this place. 

Saying goodbye is always hard, especially when you had a good time. But don't worry, Cambodia, I will be back! Also, check out the airport. Don't see this sight much anymore! 

(https://youtu.be/oHwV4qaF2GU)

Siem Reap 2015 Part I

I've been meaning to post this since forever ago, but I get "dizzy" whenever I looked through pictures and videos taken of the trip because there are TOO MANY of them. But I've finally sorted them, and my word, looking through them brought back wonderful memories. This was the first trip my entire family has taken together in 8 years! Between school and missions, all five members of my family have not lived under one roof for those many years, and so my mother decided that we should do a family trip in August 2015. Since my parents and I had a wonderful time in Siem Reap in 2014 (you can read about my first trip HERE), we decided to take my sisters there.

Here is a quick summary of the trip.

ACCOMMODATION
August is a good month to visit because it is off-peak season, although it is still hot. Like hell-hot. Thankfully we checked into Laysung Angkor Boutique Hotel (review on tripadvisor HERE), an off-the-beaten path hotel that some tuk tuk drivers had never heard of. It is located right next to a village, and you are greeted by the crowing of the rooster every morning. But oh man, the hotel was beautiful, had a nice pool, good air-conditioning, the rooms were cheap (about $60/night), and the service was #1!!! It is located near the major tourist destinations, and had GOOD food :) HIGHLY RECOMMENDED once you have a map of where it is. That is a picture of my room on the right, and below is a picture of the small pool. Nice huh?

So lets talk FOOD because it's one of my favorite subjects. Cambodians love their lemongrass, a distinct flavor that my family is "meh" with. Guess we are too used to our strong coconut milk-flavored curries. But you have to try other food. I believe most restaurants are catered to tourists, so the food is not 100% authentic, but like my tour guide said, "the bacteria in our stomach" is different from the Cambodians so eat authentic food with caution. For one, locals are used to a different standard of hygiene. I totally get that because I'm sure some tourists in Singapore are appalled by the hygiene of our famous hawker centers. Same thing, different country.

Anyway,
 From left to right, top to bottom: 
- At Khmer Kitchen near Pub Street, eating Khmer food that was DELICIOUS! Two different curries, Asian egg omelette and a green mango salad. My sisters fell in love with the famous Cambodian amok curry.
- You MUST try their cheap and (mostly) fresh fruit/ nut shakes.

- Authentic Cambodian-style corn on the cob in husk-- I loved this!

- Me trying my hand at stirring palm sugar over fire. 

- Roasted palm husks containing sweetened rice and beans-- this is 100% authentic Cambodian. Reminded me to Chinese glutinous rice. 

- Fresh coconut juice and flesh.

Some food might be more questionable, such as "chicken breath" and "pineattle" but overall, sooooooo good!

And of course you have to try insects. Cambodians, driven by starvation under the brutal Pol Pot regime, began catching insects to eat in the 1970s. Now, they catch and sell insects along on the roadside as "normal" food. Once again, its fun to try but non-locals can't eat too much because (once again) "different bacteria." Our guide stopped to buy some along a random roadside store. I believe the insects pictured on the right are crickets, and two different types of beetles and larvae. 

 I made a video documenting my experience, which I uploaded on YouTube. This is the URL link to the whole "Siem Reap 2015" playlist, while the link to this particular video of me eating a beetle for the first time in my life is at: https://youtu.be/qQjFYzRur0w (in case the video doesn't appear below since its "unlisted"). 

TRAVEL

This is not mandatory but I highly recommend getting a local tour guide because they are better able to explain the significance of the Angkor temple ruins, and will enhance the experience x1000. Sure, it costs more but think of it as contributing to the local economy. Our tour guide, Mardy, grew up in Siem Reap, and spoke fluent English. He was knowledgeable, friendly and very accommodating, and I definitely recommend him. He charged a reasonable fee for the 3.5 days we spent with him, and included in his fee was a private van and driver. Believe me, it is worth every penny to have the air-conditioned private van once you see how hot and crowded it is. 

Our hotel also provided FREE transportation to and from the major tourist shopping areas (Old Market, etc.), which is another reason why I say this hotel's service was #1. 

Finally, you HAVE TO sit on the famous Cambodian tuk tuk. I wrote about my first time sitting a tuk tuk, and this second time, I was more prepared for the "chaotic order" of Siem Reap traffic. What I was caught off-guard by was the uneven, pot-hole-laden, short off-road to get to the hotel from the main road. I promise you that I did not purposely shake my hands-- it was all caused by the pot holes. 

URL Link: https://youtu.be/dZCMSzp40F8 

BACKSTREET ACADEMY

If you are ever touring my side of the world, you have to participate in Backstreet Academy, a NGO that organizes "local" activities for tourists to participate in. Sign up for a stone carving class, a dance class, or learn a musical instrument-- each city has 20-60 options for visitors to choose from! My sisters and I decided to make purses from tire scraps. 

I made that bag (with lots of help)-- pretty proud of myself.

Read my review of the experience HERE (don't know why the system allocated me to Senegal). As you can tell, we had a great time, and I HIGHLY recommend these activities to visitors. Besides, it helps the local people, so it's a win-win for everyone :)  

Now, on to the famous temple ruins of Angkor and other sightseeing activities, which I will write more about in the next post!