Vignettes from Siem Reap- The Tuk Tuk Driver

[For a more comprehensive account of my trip, please read my earlier post "Fabulous Siem Reap"]

The Tuk Tuk Driver

We came to a street intersection at the Old Market, trying to decide if we wanted to continue shopping or find a place for dinner. "Tuk tuks" (the Cambodian equivalent of a taxi, really a carriage pulled by a motorcycle) lined all four corners, their drivers lounging on their own tuk tuk seats, taking shelter from the unbearable heat while waiting for tourists to hail. The pace of life in Cambodia is a refreshing change from the hectic strides back home.

A tuk tuk of durians- love, love, love!

"Come, come. Cheap!," said a driver, beckoning us to sit in his tuk tuk, "I drive around the market, you sit, see see."
"No, no. I think we want to eat," replied my dad.
"Ah! Eat... good eat. Then you sit my tuk tuk after you eat," he chuckled in reply.
We laughed. He was definitely more engaged in advertising his services compared to his peers.

"Is there any good place to eat?" asked my mom.
"Yes. There, my kitchen," he said, pointing down the street.
"My kitchen?"
"Yes, my kitchen. I take people eat there. Good, good." he reassured us.
We quickly figured he wasn't literally referring to his kitchen, but the name of the restaurant.

"Are you sure it's good?"
"Yes," he nodded emphatically, "Very good." (Although frankly, what other option could he say...)
"Air-conditioned?" (It's just too hot not to ask)
"Yes, yes."

We discussed our options, and decided to try it.
"Good food," said the tuk tuk driver, "You eat, then sit my tuk tuk. I bring you around." Dang, not a bad negotiator!

We trooped down the street, and found "my kitchen." The name of the restaurant was actually Khmer Kitchen, and it wasn't air-conditioned, but it had strong ceiling fans that blew small winds of relief for our wearied bodies. We sat down, uncertain of what to order. In the end, we ordered the fresh spring rolls, amok (fish curry), fried pumpkin, and omelette with long beans, and each of us had a fresh fruit shake. The tuk tuk driver was right- the food was delicious, and the fruit shakes, refreshing. And it only cost slightly over US$20 in total for the entire meal! We walked out with happy, full stomachs, and found the tuk tuk driver waiting for us. As agreed, we decided to let him take us for a ride around the Old Market.

"All six can ride my tuk tuk," he smiled and beckoned for us to step into his tuk tuk, slickly sidestepping any questions if we should take two tuk tuks.
"All six of us?"
"Can, can," he nodded.
Err...okay... We climbed into the tuk tuk, three persons on each side.

Clutching the handlebars hanging from the side, we absorbed the sights and sounds as the tuk tuk drove around. With the setting of the sun, shops at the Old Market began closing, only to be replaced with the glittering lights of the night markets. The chattering of the growing crowds, the chugging of the ubiquitous motorcycles, the honks of vehicles overtaking, the bumpy ride over unevenly paved roads... Surprisingly there wasn't a particularly strong aroma wafting from the streets or shops, unless you count the smell of petroleum and diesel from the vehicles. We stopped once to do some shopping, then rode back to the hotel. 

"How much is the fare?" we asked.

"Anything, anything."

"$10 enough?"

"Can, can. Thank you," as he placed his palms together in the usual way that Cambodians greet and thank others.

As we paid him, he said  "Tomorrow, you go where, call me. I take you go see Angkor Wat, Floating Village..." Then he pointed to the roof of his tuk tuk where a few name cards were attached, "My name card. Call me, I take you. Cheap." 

We explained that we already had a tour guide that would take us, but that we would keep his card if we needed his service.

"Can can. I take you to night market tomorrow?"

" We'll call you."

"Okay. Can, can."

"What's your name so that we can call you?"

"Mr. Money."

If my dad ever needs to look for a new job...

 [We did call Mr. Money to take us to the night market the next evening, and all six of us squeezed into his tuk tuk again. I wouldn't recommend having that many people in one tuk tuk. It wasn't comfortable.]